Solid perfumes

Recently I went for a lovely drive to The Honey Farm located in Chudleigh, Tasmania. Chudleigh lies in a little valley with the awesome Great Western Tiers as the backdrop. Chudleigh is also very close to Mole Creek Karst National Park – an area renowned for underground caves, underground rivers, caverns and glow worms! It is a breathtakingly beautiful, pristine part of the world.

The purpose of my trip was to pick up some beeswax for my solid perfumes. The beeswax has a beautiful rich, honey aroma. Here it is:

Tasmanian beeswax from Chudleigh

Tasmanian beeswax from Chudleigh

And here are the solid perfumes made from the beeswax with jojoba, essential oils & absolutes: Solar, Rose Tea & Forest.

SOLAR: is a radiant blend of juicy citrus, jasmine grandiflorum, bitter orange absolute and amber.

ROSE TEA: is a bohemian rose & tea, with a heart of rose centifolia and damascena delicately surrounded by tea notes of bergamot, rooibos red tea and frankincense, on a base of patchouli and oud.

FOREST: dappled rays of citrus dance amongst the fir and pine trees, before casting light on an earthy forest floor of vetiver and incense.

These have been a real delight to make. There seems to be something calming and meditative about the preparation of solid perfumes – I think it has to do with the grating and melting of the beeswax! After adjusting of ratios, these have turned out to be a lovely creamy consistency that melt right into the skin leaving an intimate veil of scent.

These will initially only be available at the Launceston niche market. I should then have them available online in the new year.

 

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3 thoughts on “Solid perfumes

  1. Dear Kerry…I just want to get a dilution system down to a science and work out a system that I will be able to use year after year. I need your help. I use Jojoba as my diluent in my blends…
    Do you have a 10 %-20% dilution ratio table you use to dilute your raw materials/oils?
    Do you have a system /table by which you dilute down your concentrated perfume material/,,jus,,/, making 20%, 30%, 40 % concentrations for different types of perfumes?
    Does the number of drops in one ounce depend on the material? Or all materials measure 20 drops per ounce?
    How do you standardize your formulae?
    I am just an absolute beginner…
    Thank you, Jane

    • Hi Jane, thanks for your question. I just wanted to let you know that there may be a little delay in me answering your question as I currently have a high workload. I hope to be able to reply this weekend, however, there is a possibility it could be a week or two. I’ll either reply on this thread or else do a more detailed response as an actual blog topic. Kind regards, Kerry.

    • Hi Jane, I apologise for my slow reply. I had hoped to write a blog post tackling your question, however, I currently don’t have time to give it as much attention as I would have liked. I’ve instead opted to give you a quick answer here that hopefully you will find useful.
      Yes, it will help if you devise a system! Basically, to sum up I would say there is no right or wrong way – you just need to choose something that will work for you and that you understand and can replicate. What works for me may not necessarily work for you, but any way will involve some maths!
      When you are starting out, it is advisable to dilute a small amount of your aromatic material in a vial so that you can assess the material diluted – it is not advisable to smell your essential oils undiluted. Number one they can be too strong and overwhelming and number two, it is hard to fully appreciate the subtle nuances at full strength. 10% should be a good dilution to get to know your essential oils (unless it is a particularly strong essential oil in which case try 5%). If you want to make your final perfume at a 15% concentration, it is going to be incredibly difficult to go from a 10% dilution to 15%! Hence, only make up small vials for getting to know your oils (unless of course you are going to go with a final product at 10%). Some folk will dilute their essential oils to say 20% or 30% – it is then easier to work out how much more carrier you need to add in order to dilute your perfume to the final concentration you want.
      I personally don’t do this. I prefer to make up the fragrance concentrate with the full strength essential oils. (Having said that, some materials are so thick and resinous to work with that I will have those diluted).
      When I am working on a new fragrance I use drops (to avoid wastage). When I am happy with the perfume I convert the drops to weight because yes the drop of one essential oil can weigh more or less than the drop of another essential oil. Also, sometimes a drop you squeeze out may be more or less than the last time you squeezed a drop out! So definitely convert your formula into weight and check that it smells how you want it to smell. I put all of these weights into a table.
      If I have used a diluted essential oil I take that into account. So as an example, if my essential oil is at a 50% dilution and I weigh out 10 grams, only 5 grams will be the actual essential oil and the other 5 grams will be my carrier (I dilute based on weight not drops). I need to know this for when I then dilute my fragrance concentrate with my carrier to get my final perfume.
      So lets say when I add up my entire fragrance concentrate that it comes to 15 grams. If I want my final perfume to be at eau de parfum strength 15%, I will need to add 85 grams of my preferred carrier.
      Fragrance concentrate 15 grams + carrier 85 grams = 100 grams. The 15 grams fragrance concentrate divided by the total of 100 grams = 0.15 which is 15%.
      Within the table I also put a column to work out the percentage that each essential oil represents of the fragrance concentrate. If I am unsure about a certain ingredients safety I search for it on the good scents company site to find out how much of it can be used within the fragrance concentrate to ensure my formula complies.
      I will also put a final column on the table to work out the percentage of each essential oil within the final diluted perfume to once again check that each essential oil is not above its safe level in the final perfume.
      This table is then used as the formula for all subsequent batches. If I need to make a larger batch I can simply double the weights.
      I hope this makes sense and answers your questions.

      Kind regards,
      Kerry

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